Located next to Elizabeth Harbor, George Town is the charming capital of the Exumas.The sights of George Town are best appreciated by a leisurely stroll and include St.Andrew's Anglican Church, local craft stores, clothing stores, and the straw market. (25-minute drive).

The protected harbor that is 5 miles long and 1 mile wide provides a protective area for all kinds of water sports including sailing, snorkeling, fishing, diving, sea kayaking and exploring the many islands.

The Tropic of Cancer runs directly through George Town, the capital and principal settlement of the Exumas, located on the island of Great Exuma. This tranquil seaport village opens onto a 24km-long (15-mile) harbor. George Town, partly in the Tropics and partly in the temperate zone, is a favorite port of call for the yachting crowd.

If you need to stock up on supplies, George Town is the place to go, as it has more stores and services than any other spot in the Exumas. There are dive centers, marinas, markets, a doctor, and a clinic. The town often doesn't bother with street names, but everything's easy to find.

Restaurants

With a few exceptions, the best places to take meals in George Town are in the main hotels. There are several casual joints in George Town where you can grab a quick meal. Towne Cafe, in the Marshall Complex (tel. 242/336-2194), serves one of the best breakfasts in George Town. It's really the town bakery. Drop in any day but Sunday for a lunch of local Exumian specialties such as stewed grouper or chicken souse or a sandwich. A former school bus was recycled and turned into Jean's Dog House along Queen's Highway in George Town. Here you'll find the island's best lobster burger in a cramped but spotless kitchen on wheels. Instead of eating in the hotel dining room, many like to go there for breakfast and order the "MacJean," a mega sandwich with sausage or bacon, plus cheese, on freshly baked bread. Of course, she is also noted for her "dogs," or frankfurters. The owner is a well-loved personality known only as Jean. Jean's is open only from 7am to 3pm.

Fresh, Sexy Conch--The best conch salad is found at Big D's Conch Spot No. 2, Government Dock (tel. 242/358-0059). "Fresh, sexy conch," as it's called here, is served daily. They'll make it right in front of you, so you know what's going into your salad. They're open Tuesday to Sunday noon to 1am. Reservations are requested.

Sightseeing

The confectionery pink-and-white Government Building, which was "inspired" by the Government House architecture in Nassauis cute.

Under an old ficus tree in the center of town, there's a straw market where you can chat with the friendly Exumian women and perhaps purchase some of their handcrafts.

George Town has a colorful history, despite the fact that it appears so sleepy today. (With so little traffic, it doesn't even need a traffic light.) Pirates used its deep-water harbor in the 17th century, and those called the "plantation aristocracy," mainly from Virginia and the Carolinas, settled here in the 18th century. In the next 100 years, Elizabeth Harbour, the focal point of the town, became a refitting base for British man-of-war vessels, and the U.S. Navy used the port again during World War II.

There's not too much shopping, but there are a few nice places where you can purchase souvenirs and gifts. Exuma Liquor and Gifts, Queen's Highway (tel. 242/336-2101), is the place to stock up on liquor, wine, and beer. The Peace & Plenty Boutique, Queen's Highway (tel. 242/336-2761), stands next to the Sandpiper and across the street from Peace & Plenty Club. Its main draw is a selection of Androsia batiks for women, and Androsia cloth is sold by the yard. You can also find such practical items as film and suntan lotion. The boutique stocks a large selection of men and women's sportswear, as well. The Sandpiper, Queen's Highway (tel. 242/336-2084), stands across from Club Peace & Plenty. Its highlights are the original serigraphs by Diane Minns, but it also offers a good selection of Bahamian arts and crafts, along with such items as Bahamian straw baskets (or other handcrafted works), sponges, ceramics, watches, baskets, jewelry, books, and postcards. Diane designs and silk-screens T-shirts here in the shop, and she welcomes anyone to watch her at work.

One of the offshore sights in Elizabeth Harbour is tiny Crab Cay, which can be reached by boat. This was believed to have been a rest camp for British seamen in the 18th century.

George Town is the sailing mecca for cruisers traveling in the Bahamas.